FIRST SHOWER SINCE ARRIVAL
The day started with me having my first shower in four and a half days. So far I had either gone for swims or at least washed myself in the ocean. This fine morning I drove to town and used the shower in the small B&B room we were renting there for the expedition. It didn’t feel like something great that I had been craving badly for days. Washing myself in the sea is not unpleasant albeit cold.
THE CREW OF RESEARCH SHIP MARTIN BERGMANN
When back at the cabin, we started preparations for Hermione’s launch. A short while later the crew of research ship the Martin Bergmann arrived.
LAST-MINUTE LAUNCH PREPARATIONS
I let the pros go about their business and assisted Art a bit with the setting-up of his cameras and GoPros. After about an hour of careful preparations and meticulous planning we were ready to push and pull the boat down the launch slide.
PULLING…
Shawn was some 20m off the pebble beach with his motor boat, pulling Hermione as hard as possible via a long rope.
(c) Art Huseonica, left photo above, right photo above and feature photo
…AND PUSHING
We didn’t even use any of the vehicles to push the boat, as initially planned, but just placed ourselves on both sides alongside the hull and started pulling forward and wiggling up and down in order to start the momentum that would get the old lady to slide into the water. After all the worries and complex considerations that had been had, it all ended up surprisingly straightforward and easy.
A HUGE RELIEF
Thank heavens for that. It could have all ended up a right mess if the boat would have completely tipped over to one side and hit one of the large boulders, or if it would have entered the sea at too steep an angle and crashed full-on into one of the submerged rocks.
TWO GIANT CHARS
Some of the Bergmann crew, encouraged by Shawn, helped themselves to two huge chars from the fishnet, gutted and filleted them right there. One of them cleaned the raw roe in the sea and devoured it right there and with gusto.
GULLS AND JAEGERS
There were some seagulls and some parasitic jaegers, also called shitty hawks by locals.
STORIES OF ADVENTURE
We all went back to Shawn’s cabin and spent a couple of hours telling stories of adventures past and discussing all types of topics. The research ship crew naturally had lots of interesting insights into the exotic Arctic flora and fauna.
TALKATIVE ORCAS VS QUIET KILLER WHALES
Among a million other things we learned that orcas who hunt seals don’t talk much with each other during the hunt, because seals would be alerted to them. Orcas who chase fish like sharks talk plenty during their hunt. And who knew that transient killer whales and resident killer whales have absolutely no dealings with each other and have entirely different hunting habits and behaviours. Some scientists have recently provided evidence that suggests, the two types of orca are indeed entirely different species.
DELICIOUS DINNER
Dinner was delicious and plentiful. Some stewed moose ribs prepared by Shawn, some grilled elk cubes on skewers, salmon steaks, vegetables, bread, and the remainder of the 6 or 7 litres of chili con carne I had prepared a couple of days ago. Perhaps the most fun evening so far. We are all looking forward to meeting the Bergmann crew again soon in Cambridge Bay, when we are supposed to visit them with Hermione on their ship, just to say hi.
For tomorrow’s post click here.
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE EXPEDITION
22 July – LHR to YCB
2 August 2024 (Cambridge Bay to Starvation Bay)
4 August 2024 (Starvation Bay to Wellington Bay)
12 August 2024 (From Wellington Bay 6h further Westward)
15 August 2024 (53mi/96km from Botany Island to Richardson Islands)
18 August 2024 (from Richardson Islands past Marker Islands)
22 August 2024 (23mi/37km Westward from Miles and Nauyan Islands past Lady Franklin Point – extremely tough conditions – ‘MISSION IMPOSSIBLE’)
23 August 2024 (Dreadful 10 miles – 12mi/19km – that felt like 100 miles to Douglas Island; welcome committee of two dozen seals)
25 August 2024 (An easy 19mi/31km from Douglas Island to Lambert Island; MS Fridtjoff Nansen passing)
27 August 2024 (An easy 7mi/9km along Lambert Island; yacht Night Owl passing by us)
28 August 2024 (STARTING OUR 64MI/104KM PUSH EARLY; passing Hanseatic Spirit, MS Roald Amundsen, yacht Honshu)
29 August 2024 (Arriving at Cape Hope after 64mi/104km – new team best)
30 August 2024 (EMERGENCY BEACHING at a bay next to Cape Hope)
31 August 2024 (CABIN FLOODED; LEAK FOUND)
Mike’s Poem about our Northwest Passage Expedition
3 September 2024 (REPAIRING HERMIONE)
DETAILS OF LEVEN’S MASTERPIECE: THE PRELIMINARY REPAIR and preparation of the re-launch of Hermione
4 September 2024 (A LOT OF DIGGING and another unsuccessful attempt to refloat the boat)
5 September 2024 (REFLOATING HERMIONE, MOTORING TOWARDS PAULATUK; MILITARY PLANE PASSING)
6 September 2024 (BACK TO ROWING AFTER EMERGENCY MOTOR BREAKS)
8 September 2024 (my 50th birthday; ALMOST CRASHING THE BOAT into rocks; Skynet; a pod of whales)
12 September 2024 (starting our last big push before Paulatuk; RUNNING AGROUND 3X; BIOLUMINESCENCE; Northern lights)
13 September 2024 (ALL HELL BREAKING LOOSE – ALMOST CRASHING INTO CLIFFS)
NORTHERN LIGHTS, 15 September, near Paulatuk
15 September 2024 (REACHING PAULATUK)
16 September 2024 (eating proper food; shower; the good life)
19 September 2024 (flying back home; 5 flights; Breakfast Club at Inuvik Airport)
Stefan will be rowing the Northwest Passage this summer – A little Q&A
Northwest Passage Expedition – Kit List
Trevor’s Travel Trivia IX – The Northwest Passage
My home town’s newspaper, Burghauser Anzeiger, has published an article about the Expedition