The new M Restaurant in Victoria opened in November 2015 with a lot of noise, which is something that typically puts us off, as in our experience the more noise, the less effort the venue’s staff and management put into it, and the lower the quality of the food and service. However, walking past by the restaurant every now and then, seeing the stylish lobby and the pleasant way in which staff greeted diners, what had to happen, did happen one day: we couldn’t resist any longer and gave in. My wife had found a voucher somewhere on the web that promised 50% off and a glass of champagne for free, so we made our reservation and our way to the venue.
You enter through the ground-floor lobby in Victoria Street, and are then immediately led down into the very high-ceilinged and very elegantly designed basement where your choice is between M Raw, for sushi, ceviche and other raw seafood, or M Grill for the best, most juicy parts of premium cattle worldwide.
The service ranks among the best-trained, most knowledgeable, helpful, and most pleasant ones we’ve encountered in London, where even top restaurants often work with minimum-wage staff that has been trained on the job in a 5-minute prep before they’re being let loose on paying customers.
M has been launched by Ex-Gaucho supremo, Martin Williams, and has been blasted by some critics for having made it all look and feel “too like Las Vegas”, but there’s nothing wrong with Las Vegas if it works as well as this!
The waiter explained each of the different varieties of beef and asked for our preferences before recommending an USDA prime fillet steak from Kansas for my wife and a Botswana spiral cut sirloin for myself.
The food arrived just 15 minutes later and ranks among the best steak house experiences we’ve had. The meat felt like it was going to melt on our tongues, full of beautiful flavours, seasoned by seasoned chefs, with just enough taste, but without overshadowing the taste of the meat.
We also thoroughly enjoyed the atmosphere. We were seated at one of the two elevated short sides of the oval main seating area, and watched other guests being seated one after another, as we had been among the first to arrive that evening. Everything looks very stylish and a bit American, more L.A. than Las Vegas, really.
Even without our 50% discount and the free champagne, we would call the prices reasonable, considering the high quality ingredients and cooking, as well as the lovely ambience, with my wife’s 250g fillet steak set at £49, and my 400g spiral cut at £35. Third-pub these days often charge in excess of £20 for their rubbery steaks, this is a whole different world for roughly twice that kind of money.
We will come back, probably very soon, as we like to meet friends who live locally (we also used to live close-by in Page Street, just around the corner) in the nearby new Curzon cinema, when they’re not making their way over to the Curzon in Curzon Street, and are thinking about double-dating at M before a movie.